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| Chef's Showcase |
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| The Balsams: Long Live The American Plan |
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Executive chef: Steve Learned
Executive pastry chef: Steve James
Managing partner and director of food service: Phil Learned
Years open: More than 130
Dayparts: Full breakfast, lunch, and dinner served in several venues
Concept: Classic all-American, all-inclusive resort
Number of chefs in whites: 40-45
Number of seats: 465 in main dining room, 80 in private dining room, 200 at ski area, 100 at country club
Number of rooms: 203
The Balsams property: 15,000 acres
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Why is The Balsams brand of hospitality always in style? - Questions & Answers
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Please tell us about "The American Plan" and what that means for foodservice operations.
At The Balsams everything is included in one price. That means the room, all meals, entertainment, recreation, and access to the grounds. When you check in, your family is assigned a table in the dining room, so you get to feel comfortable with your servers and the room. Without making a reservation, guests are free to come and go anytime within our hours of service. The American Plan also means that we must change the menu daily, on a seven day cycle, so that guests can experience different selection of dishes at every meal without any repetition. We need to be very accurate with our purchasing and production, to keep waste at a minimum.
Because food is the centerpiece of the guest experience, we also offer kitchen tours and cooking classes as part of the resort's recreation program.
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How has your experience prepared you for being executive chef at The Balsams?
Since my father, Phil, has been at the property for 36 years, I practically grew up here. We lived in a nearby home, but I spent a good majority of my childhood in the kitchen. It was the best way to spend time with him. After I graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and got a hotel and foodservice management degree from Florida International University, I spent three years in Washington D.C. at the Radisson and the Doubletree. Then I tried restaurant foodservice with the Millennium Group in Indiana. In the spring of 1998, I had an opportunity to return to The Balsams.
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You must have seen a lot of change over the years. What's different about the food now?
The style of service may be old-fashioned but our guests aren't old-fashioned at tall. Several decades ago, our clientele was used to the classic resorts of the Catskills. The food tended to be conservative; there wasn't a lot of imagination. Now we're much more family oriented, and host a lot of reunions and group vacations. The nation's tastes have changed, too. All of that is now reflected in what they're willing to try and what they've come to expect when dining out.
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How do you know what customers want?
We have a lot of regular guests, some families now going on their third or fourth generation, visiting the resort. Guests drive the menu, really, with what they enjoy most and by special requests and comments. Our selection of dishes and projections of production are based on a detailed history of guests' eating habits that we've been collecting for years.
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What might a typical dinner menu offer?
In the main dining room, breakfast is served both buffet or off-the-menu. Summertime lunch is a grand buffet, while in the winter we also serve a la carte in the ski lodge. Dinner is always a "Table d'Hôte," which means guests can select as much or as little as they like from our various menu categories.
Appetizers might include Iced Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce or Poached Garlic and Herb Ravioli with Fresh Bacon Cream. That's followed by a Soup and Juice course with choices ranging from Split Pea Soup to Chilled Coconut Bisque or a chilled fruit soup to Cranberry Juice or Hawaiian Punch for the kids.
A few salads are always on the dinner menu - simple mixed greens as well as more elaborate composed dishes. And then, for entrée there might be Roast Prime Rib of Certified Beef au Jus; Roast Long Island Duckling au Citron; Cassoulet of Scallops, Lobster and Shrimp;Veal Scalloppini Shaker Village with Spaetzle and Pan Sauce; or Cracked Black Pepper Fettucini with Zesty Tomato Sauce.
Dessert always includes several choices such as fresh fruit sorbet, Classic Crème Brulee or Rhubarb Cobbler with Strawberry Ice Cream.
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That's a lot of work, especially if you're changing the entire menu three times a day. How do you recruit kitchen staff and keep them motivated?
Fortunately, there are a lot of longtime employees here with me, especially in the leadership kitchen positions. We also have an extensive apprenticeship program, where young people come in and work three years, taking courses and living on-property at our new Culinary Apprenticeship Center, which has a function area for demonstrations and gatherings. There will be 13 freshman apprentices in our next starting class.
We're so remote and people have to work hard during season. But they also get time off several times a year, which is seen as both a positive or a challenge. We actively recruit in schools, at shows, everywhere. When they're at The Balsams, chefs have the opportunity to work with several experienced supervisors and prepare a wide range of dishes, and that's invaluable experience.
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To what do you credit The Balsams' ongoing success?
Stability. We've had the same managing partners for about 36 years. Usually in the hotel business, management turns over rather frequently, and you're always getting used to new styles and approaches. At The Balsams we can concentrate on the details, knowing that the core food and beverage philosophy remains the same.
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