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Willing to Experiment
Executive Chef Grappa Grill
John Altmann is never afraid to try new menu items.
Executive chef:  John Altmann
Location:  St. Charles, MO
Culinary education and experience:   The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, N.Y.; Walt Disney World, Orlando, Fla.; Busch Stadium, St. Louis
Concept:  Great variety and high-quality food in a friendly neighborhood atmosphere
Owner:   Terry Jones
Number of seats:   225 inside; 100-150 outside
Check averages:   lunch, $6-$10; dinner, $15-$18
General manager:   Jon Maes
Off-site catering:  Specialties include hot and cold appetizers and entrées, tacos and burritos from taco and burrito bar, or boxed lunches
Menu highlights:   An entire “low-carb” section; Italian nachos, $5.99; grilled buffalo chicken pizza, $8.29; raspberry chicken salad, $7.99; jambalaya pasta, $12.99; salmon and shrimp strudel, $14.95; prime rib (16-ounce cut), $17.99; chocolate ravioli, $4.49
Why is it so important to remain flexible and open to new ideas? – Questions & Answers
How long have you been at Grappa Grill, and how has the menu changed over the years?
I’ve been with the restaurant since we opened seven years ago, so I planned the whole menu and kitchen equipment and catering. A lot has changed over the years. From the very beginning we had to make adjustments because I had put on the menu some things that were never really very popular with our clientele. Items like an oatmeal-crusted catfish sandwich stick out in my mind, and there was a lot of veal and pork, too. We had to revert to a more steak- and-potatoes approach.

But now for the last few years, we have what I call a very even menu, meaning there aren’t really any dogs. That’s both good and bad, because what winds up happening is that I keep adding menu items and have a hard time taking things off. Right now we have more than 100 items on the menu. Customers seem very willing to go along for the ride.

How has the reaction been?
Unbelievable. It’s been extremely popular from the very first day.
Please tell us about some of the low-carb dishes you’ve come up with.
For an appetizer there’s three-cheese soup, made with blue cheese, pepper jack and cheddar. We also developed a couple of frittatas – one with vegetables and cheese, the other with crab and Boursin cheese and bacon and ham. Both have cottage cheese as the side dish. We have Salisbury steak with Gorgonzola and spaghetti squash on the side and a pecan-crusted salmon with yellow pepper coulis. And there’s also a loaded chef salad.
Are there other menu “experiments” that have become popular items?
Oh, yes. A lot of them are familiar dishes that we treat to a decidedly different twist. One of them is Italian Nachos. The idea is the same as the Mexican version in that we start with fried tortilla chips. Then they’re drizzled with Alfredo sauce and sprinkled with sausage, pepperoncini, black olives and roasted red peppers.

Then there’s sweet shallot kraut, which is served with the crabcake “Ruben” sandwich. I reduce a ton of shallots down with a little cider vinegar, brown sugar, honey and grenadine.

Some items, like pineapple ranch dressing, are just little things that make really common food more special. Here it’s as simple as pureeing some pineapples into our homemade ranch dressing.

One of our most unexpected popular items is the raspberry chicken salad, with all fresh fruit and honey-glazed walnuts, which really make it.

Do you make everything from scratch?
About the only thing we don’t make is sandwich bread. Everything else – the stocks, soups, sauces, dressings – all start with us.
Isn’t it tough to train your staff to make all those preparations?
It is, but I have a great staff. Everybody picks it up pretty quickly. And I try to simplify what I can. I believe in thorough training and retraining every day. The only way you learn in the kitchen is through repetition. Fortunately, I really like to teach and work the line. And that’s the best way to ensure you’re producing the exact product you want to see.
Has your career evolved as much as the Grappa Grill menu?
After graduating from The CIA, I worked at Walt Disney World for a few years. Then I met my wife and moved to St. Louis, where I worked at Busch Stadium as the catering manager for the club and suites.

One thing I’ve learned over the years is that you can’t put too much pressure on yourself and get all worked up. I’m more productive and focused when I’m more relaxed. And I think that’s why I’m lucky enough to have such a solid kitchen staff. Almost everyone has been together for four to five years.

What’s your secret?
I try to work one-on-one and develop the kitchen staff’s cooking skills as individuals. That’s one way to encourage new ideas and new thinking for the menu, while also giving people a sense of pride in seeing what they can really achieve.