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  • Chef's Showcase
    Share The Enthusiasm
    Jesse Llapitan
    Jesse Llapitan enjoys teaching and giving cooking demonstrations.
    Executive chef: Jesse Llapitan
    Property: The Houstonian
    Location:  Houston, Texas
    Web site:  www.houstonian.com
    Concept:  hotel, fine dining, club, spa, rooms for meetings and events, all set on an 18-acre property near downtown.
    Distinctions:  Member, Preferred Hotels, and Resorts; AAA, Four Diamonds; Mobil, Four Stars
    Number of rooms:  288
    Dining venues:  Olivette; The Center Court Café, in The Houstonian Club; Gazebo; and The Bar
    Banquet and private dining venues:  26 total, including ballrooms and meeting rooms and the intimate Manor House
    Olivette menu features:  brick-oven-roasted veal chop filled with macerated figs, Maytag blue cheese, prosciutto, fava beans and orange roasted roma tomatoes, $31; lemon meringue tart, $7.
    What are some of your long-term and near- term goals for dining at The Houstonian? - Questions & Answers
    How long have you been at The Houstonian?
    It's been about six months since I arrived. My last position was as executive chef at the St. Regis in Los Angeles, which I opened a little more than three years ago.
    Has most of your experience been in hotels?
    I am a true hotelier. Through my career I've worked in just about every type of lodging outfit in Los Angeles, Vail [Colo.], Chicago, Boston, Hawaii, Seattle and San Francisco. Along the way there have been a couple of roles in smaller restaurants, though usually affiliated with a hotel property.
    What brought you to The Houstonian?
    I had heard about the operation and the opening through friends. This is an extraordinary property, and being chef here provided me with a unique opportunity.

    For one thing a majority of our guests are locals, which is rare for hotels. And there is a lot going on in the city right now, with the upcoming Super Bowl. Houston is a growing city both in terms of population and guest rooms. It's going to be an exciting place to be.

    You seem to be causing some excitement with some recent media appearances. Where did you learn to do cooking demonstrations?
    I first got involved with culinary education back in Colorado, where I taught in a local school and ran an internship program at our hotel. Even though that was for young foodservice professionals, I soon discovered that our guests wanted to learn how to cook, too. So we began offering classes.

    Now the whole cooking class phenomenon has really taken off. People are fascinated with the process of serving food at a restaurant, and many want to learn to cook that well at home. Gradually, I've done more videotaped demonstrations for television and for the Web. It's a lot of fun; that's for sure.

    What would you say is the most important message about cooking that you try to convey?
    I'm passionate about the quality of ingredients. Cooking is pretty intimate. You're preparing something to be consumed by a human body. I think that requires a certain level of respect - both for the individual and the food. That fish gave up its life for you to make a meal. A farmer spends a large part of his or her life in raising the fruits and vegetables we eat. It's an important connection to remember.
    How does that philosophy translate into your goals for The Houstonian?
    In the near term I want The Houstonian to be recognized for the best hotel dining in the city, to set the tone for the type of cuisine and service that is introduced to Houston's visitors and locals alike.
    What's your vision for the long term?
    I'd like The Houstonian to be recognized as the best hotel dining experience in the country. We definitely have the property and the state-of-the-art facilities to make that happen.
    What steps are you taking toward attaining those goals?
    The key is to hire talented and motivated staff, and that's where we're focusing a lot of energy right now. For some positions we're conducting national searches and expecting longer commitments.

    The first priority is that we bring on people who have a passion for what they're doing, an enthusiasm they can share with colleagues and guests. They also must have a strong knowledge of food and food trends. Their experience should include work at major, top-quality properties. And, finally, I'm looking for creative people, who not only are willing to change but will embrace change. My chefs must never stay idle in their minds, no matter how repetitive the tasks. It's the only way for them to grow and come to a true understanding about the food they are serving.

    What are some of the biggest changes in the business you're noticing right now?
    Food is getting a lot lighter, and the portions are getting smaller again - not two-ounce pieces of meat, but smaller than before. I think people are realizing that quality is more satisfying than quantity.

    At the same time we must deliver an experience. And the best way to do that is always to stay observant, whether you're going to the grocery with your family, eating in a fine restaurant or doing another activity not even related to food. In order to be a great chef, you must use your senses all the time and live life to the fullest.