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A Foundation Of Respect
Jesse Llapitan
Jacky Francois learns by teaching.
Executive chef:  Jacky Francois
Property:  Omni William Penn Hotel
Location:  Pittsburgh, PA
Web site:  www.omnihotels.com
Concept:  elegant dining, meetings, lodging, and special events in a landmark downtown property.
Number of rooms and suites:  596
Dining venues:  The Terrace Room, Palm Court, The Tap Room
Square footage of meeting and event space:  58,000 square feet
Size of William Penn Ballroom:  5,605 square feet, accommodating 900 guests
Number of kitchen staff:  33-35
Why is it so important to foster a respectful working environment? - Questions & Answers
What path did you take to the Omni William Penn?
I was born and raised in France. I have been here at the hotel for seven years. Just before that I was an instructor at the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont. Previously, my experience had been mostly in large hotels, including as executive chef at the Intercontinental in Montreal, The Westin Galleria in Dallas and the Westin in Atlanta. I began my hotel career as executive sous chef for the Intercontinental in San Diego and New York City. And then, before that, my experience was in French restaurants in New York and Florida.
Were you trained in the classic European apprenticeship system?
Yes, in a bit of a different way. My aunt had a restaurant in France. And I always loved the aspect of touching food and learning how to cook. So after I finished high school, I had some experience in the kitchen and had a good idea of where I wanted to make my career.

I liked the fact that working in the kitchen was different every day – from the ingredients to the customers to the atmosphere. Everything is always exciting and changing. I liked the idea of traveling, meeting people from around the world, and learning to respect people’s differences.

In the three-year apprenticeship program, you spend some time as a waiter and managing the front-of-the-house, which I did. The idea is to give you respect and a certain well-rounded education on how all the pieces fit together. But I ended up finishing in about two years because my focus was so clear that I wanted to be a chef.

What did you learn from your experience as a culinary instructor?
In this business we tend to take a lot of things for granted, especially if you have been in this career a long time. You think you’ve seen it all and have your leadership approach down pat.

Well, when you teach others to be chefs, you can’t take anything for granted. I don’t know who learned more — my students or me. Obviously, the relationship between chef and employee is completely different from what happens between chef and student. However, I’ve found the same tools can be applied in the field. In fact, I’ve been using the skills I learned as a culinary instructor in my last seven years back in a hotel kitchen and have completely changed my approach.

How so?
For me, it really boils down to respect – respect for your colleagues, respect for culinary traditions, respect for ingredients and respect for flavors. In the end that’s what really motivates people.
Does one form of respect automatically lead into the next?
It must begin with the individuals, who set the standard in their dealings with each other. And my job as a leader is to cultivate this atmosphere. I believe in having as diverse a workforce as possible.

Let’s face it: If everyone were French like me, we’d drive each other nuts and never learn anything. Right now in my kitchen there are cooks from eight or nine different nationalities, which I think is terrific. Our differences only make the team stronger as we learn techniques, ingredients, and dishes from each other’s cultures.

The common language is, of course, the food. Look, a book can teach you culinary information, but it is only from other people that you will learn the cultural nuances of a cuisine. And I think this has had an impact on our cooking here.

So how’s this play out in the kitchen?
For one thing we always greet each other coming and going from our shifts. We shake hands; we say “thank you.” It seems like a small thing, but it’s very important to connect constantly with the people working at your side.

I also believe in an open-door policy: everything out in the open, from ideas to constructive criticism. After a banquet, for example, we’ll all sit down and review how things went. We talk about what a good job we did, and we talk about where we need to improve.

Do the guests notice any difference?
I’d like to think they do. For example, we recently redesigned our room service menu, and the idea came up because we were much more in tune with what our guests might want.

It’s important to change with the times, and one thing I noticed was that a lot of business travelers are now women. And they often preferred to order room service than to eat in a hotel restaurant or bar. So we developed a new in-room dining menu around a “Home Away From Home” concept. The idea is comfort food that makes you comfortable on the road. And guess what? Businessmen started eating in their rooms more, too.

From your perspective at the Omni, you must see a lot of new trends. Can you offer any insight into the direction food might be going?
We are a major location for galas, celebrations and formal events in Pittsburgh, so we do see a lot. I’m definitely noticing a renewed interest in classic simplicity. Oh, fusion food was fine, and we experimented with that and learned something, but in reality there our some things that just don’t belong on a plate together and people are finally realizing it. So I’d have to say classic techniques, excellent core ingredients, authentic flavors.

In our kitchen we constantly are doing a lot of tastings, both for ourselves and for guests, and in the end everyone appreciates the dishes with the fewest components and the most attention to the way they are prepared. In a way, I guess that boils down to respect, too.