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| Chef's Showcase |
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| FINE DINING AND CASUAL FARE IN A ONE-OF-A-KIND COMMUNITY
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Executive chef: Jason Knibb
Property Owner: Robert Redford
Concept: creative dining in an integrated arts-, recreation- and nature-oriented resort
Dining venues: Tree Room, Foundry Grill
Lodging: an exclusive assortment of studios, suites and mountain homes
Chef responsibilities: all foodservice for Tree Room and Foundry Grill, concessions in season, delivery service to lodges
Check averages: $59, dinner in the Tree room; $26 for dinner, $18 for lunch and $15 for breakfast in the Foundry Grill
Number of kitchen staff: about 37
Popular menu items: in the Tree Room: wood-grilled buffalo tenderloin with watercress, blue cheese, balsamic caramelized onion puree and stout reduction; in the Foundry Grill: fish tacos made with beer-battered halibut, dressed with chipotle mayonnaise and Napa cabbage slaw
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- Questions & Answers
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How did you come to Sundance?
I arrived toward the end of 1998, after being contacted by Trey Foshee, the executive chef at the time. He and I had worked together in California. After a year or so, he left the property and recommended that I be named executive chef.
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How did you get interested in becoming a chef?
I was born in Jamaica, where the food culture is very important. Both my parents were excellent cooks. Later I moved to Santa Monica, Calif., and got my first job bussing tables. When a neighbor eventually got me into the kitchen, I discovered I really enjoyed it.
My first serious job was at Wolfgang Puck’s Eureka restaurant. It opened my eyes and got my interest up. That’s where I learned the importance of quality ingredients. And I was lucky enough to meet a lot of other chefs who nurtured me along.
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Who are some of your culinary influences?
Well, Wolfgang Puck for one. I also worked for a while with Hans Rockenwagner. Roy Yamaguchi has had a big impact. And of course Trey.
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Would you call your approach typical Californian Cuisine?
I was fortunate to be exposed to many different flavor combinations and techniques, from Hawaiian and Pacific Rim to Mediterranean and French. Now what we focus on here is a diversity of flavors and the way they come into play with regional ingredients.
The menus are varied, and Foundry Grill includes items like pizzas, tacos and pastas. Our pastry chef, Joseph McRae bakes just about everything from scratch, except for sliced bread, and his breakfast items are especially popular all year round.
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How important is technique?
You may want the food to be flavor- and ingredient-driven, but no matter what, you have to have strong technique. Get the excellent product and then apply the technique, always remembering not to manipulate the dish in any way that would mask the flavor of the core ingredients.
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What about the clientele? What sort of expectations do they have?
Our guests are a little different in summer than in winter. During ski season people come to Sundance as their destination and they tend to stay a little longer. It’s winter, so I think they might eat a little more, especially in the Tree Room, where many will order the full tasting menu.
In the summer we have more people on short trips, sort of passing through to take advantage of all the different recreation and spa facilities. Because the weather is better, we also draw more local people who just come up for the day or a meal. I think these guests all want a dining experience that is a little more casual.
Guests are surprised, I think, when they find out how good the food is here. They might be expecting the usual lodge fare, like French onion soup and chili with crackers. But that’s not at all what we’re about.
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How popular is the Tree Room tasting menu?
It’s amazing to me sometimes, but usually 50 percent of diners order the entire tasting menu.
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That must be rewarding. Do you still work the line in the Tree Room?
Yes, quite a bit. I try to work alongside our line cooks as a way to share experience. The youngest are eager to learn, and I am very hands-on.
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How often do you change the menus?
In the Tree Room, seasonally, about three times a year to feature appropriate products. The Foundry menu has more signature items, everyday food that guests expect and enjoy. But twice a year we make some seasonal changes there, too.
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Where do you get ideas? How do you keep from feeling isolated up in the mountains?
It’s an important part of our approach – and my own growth – to stay fresh and full of creative ideas. So most of the cooks are encouraged to take some responsibility for planning specials or doing research. We all try to eat out a lot, and I travel to major cities a few times a year. I also stay in good touch with my contacts. We’ll get together on the phone and run ideas past each other and talk about what’s going on foodwise.
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What are your immediate goals?
I am grateful that we’ve been getting some nice regional attention and starting to get some national recognition. Later this summer and fall, I’m traveling to some nice events – one in Kansas City and another at The James Beard House in New York City, so I’m really looking forward to that.
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