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  • Chef's Showcase
    Welcome to Our Place
    Executive Chef Rodelio Aglibot
    Thomas Moran’s new place is all about hospitality.
    Executive chef:  Thomas Moran
    Culinary education:   The Culinary Institute of America
    Concept:  An intimate “California wine bar” set in a small New England community.
    Number of seats:   42 seats at tables; 10 bar stools
    Wife and daughters:   Sandra, Sarah and Cynthia
    Check averages:   $55 to $75
    Seatings:   6:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
    Weekend Brunch:   Saturdays and Sundays, à la carte
    Design features:   cut-glass entrance; cozy dining room with long banquet table and intermittent wall sconces; Chinese-red bar area.
    Menu highlights:   market-driven cuisine, with a menu that changes daily and includes a tasting meal.
    How do you make sure guests see the face behind the scenes? – Questions & Answers
    Is opening your own restaurant everything that you had imagined it would be?
    You know, I’ve always wanted to work in a mom-and-pop operation, and that’s exactly what we’ve created. Sandra, my wife, is my partner in every sense of the word – doing all the bookkeeping, fielding public-relations calls and making guests feel at home.

    One of my daughter's names is Sarah, so the restaurant is named after her in a way. She comes over after school and does her homework and we all spend time together. This is all just perfect, as far as I’m concerned, and it’s the sort of restaurant we dreamed of opening one day.

    How did you settle on this location?
    It’s true that things always work out just the way they’re supposed to be. I had been nearby, as the chef at the Mayflower Inn for several years. It was a terrific place, and I’d built a good reputation and following. But Sandra and I talked about what it would be like if we had our own spot. And then one day this little place became available.
    What sort of work did you and Sandra have to do to realize your vision?
    We really did it all from the ground up. For 50 years the space had been a French restaurant, so there was a kitchen here and all, but we really needed to gut everything and start fresh.

    We did a lot of the manual labor ourselves under the direction of a terrific carpenter and great designer. It’s unbelievable, but it took us only about nine weeks from start to finish.

    It sounds as if you have some people you want to thank.
    Yes, indeed. David Farmer, for his help with all the construction and Ellen Grickis for her great work with the interior. My sous chef, Jason Merek, is really blowing people away with the food. And let’s not forget Didier Boutet, who developed and sourced our wine program.
    What were some of your goals with the wine list?
    The whole idea of Petite Syrah is to be comfortable and casual, but with high-quality food and wine. So that means there have to be a lot of options. There should be something to please everyone, whether they want to come in and have a glass of wine and a salad or enjoy a tasting menu and a couple of fine bottles.

    So we’ve got 114 wines on the list. But all of the wines by the glass are less than 10 dollars. That encourages guests to experiment a bit.

    Okay, so what’s the drill? What’s a day at Petite Syrah like?
    Well, we run Thursdays through Mondays. Most restaurants in this town are closed Mondays, so we thought, “Why not be the only game in town?”

    On Wednesdays I begin receiving and doing some butchering. In the morning I make desserts and develop the menu. Each day we do a couple of fish, a couple of meats, warm appetizers and cold salads. We cook everything from scratch and to-order, so I have to plan dishes that will work during service.

    Soon the guys arrive, and we get into prep. We get the mise en place all set before people start coming, because the room is empty, and suddenly it’s full and we really get moving. As guests start sitting, I go out and greet them and talk about the food and the wine and make sure everyone’s comfortable.

    Then it’s back in the kitchen to cook. There are just three stations – sauté, grill and pantry. I work the middle and plate. It’s just a 10-foot line so we all have responsibilities, but we’re also close enough to help each other.

    So what happens if one of you can’t work the line?
    Oh, you would have to ask. Funny, I’ve never really thought of it and, knock on wood, it hasn’t happened yet. It might be tough, but I know we’d be OK because Sandra is terrific in the kitchen and would be happy to pitch in.
    Is your positive attitude part of your service philosophy?
    Saying “no” wastes time and energy. So I believe in doing anything for anyone, any time. This is the most important message I can teach my staff, no matter where else they’ve worked before and how much experience they have.

    “Yes,” I tell them, “you’re going to have to spend time at the table, be a human being and make your customers feel good.” It’s called hospitality.